Attachment for sewing pockets



R. s. PHILLIPSJR ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING POCKETS March 11, 1958 6Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Dec. 30, 195;:v

b it/Iii!!! mil-:55!

I INVENTOR.

ORT $-PH1LLJP5 HTTOP/l/Ey J JR.

March 11, 1958 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed. Dec. 30, 1953 mama R. S.PHILLIPS, JR

ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING POCKETS March 11, 195

6 Sheets-Sheet- 5 Filed Dec. 30, 1,955

. 1 W Kw? INVENTOR.

R B T sPmLuPs ANTON/116V March 11, 1958 R. s. PHILLIPS, JR 7 2,826,158

ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING POCKETS Filed Dec. 30, 1953 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 5Q Q@N L INVENTOR.

ROBERT s, PHILLIPS, 2/ g g March 11, 1958 R. s. PHILLIPS, JR 2,326,158

ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING POCKETS Filed Dec. 30, 1953 6 Sheets-Sheet 5INVENTOR.

RoeER'T S.PH\LL-\PSJ BY. JR.

ATTORNEY March 11, 1958 R. s. PHILLIPS, JR

ATTACK-WENT FOR SEWING POCKETS 6 Sheets-Sheets Filed Dec. 50, 1953INVENTORQ HTTOPIUEV United States Patent 2,826,158 ATTACHMENT FOR SEWINGPOCKETS Application December 30, 1953, Serial No. 401,181 17 Claims.(Cl. 112-2) This invention relates generally to the production of weltpockets in garments and more particularly to improved means for andmethod of inserting and securing in position the fabric strip which isnormally employed to form the welt along the edge which defines theopening into the pocket.

Among the principal objects of the present invention is to provide ameans for accurately disposing the several pocket-forming parts in theirproper superimposed relation preliminarily to sewing them together andfor insuring that the welt and other parts which make up the pocket aresecured to the main body fabric of the garment by lines of stitchingwhich are truly parallel, are properly spaced apart and are of therequisite length to produce a welt pocket free of all suchirregularities as are incidental to the conventional manufacture of weltpockets.

A further object is to facilitate and render more economical themanufacture of welt pockets, to render unnecessary the employment ofhighly skilled labor in the production of such pockets, and to improveand render more uniform the construction and appearance of welt pockets.

Other objects of the invention will appear more fully hereinafter, itbeing understood that the present invention consists substantially inthe combination, construction, location and relative arrangement of theparts of the welt-forming apparatus, as well as in the method of layingin and forming the welt as an integral part of the pocket, all as willbe described more fully hereinafter, as shown in the accompanyingdrawings and as finally pointed out in the appended claims.

In the accompanying drawings which show certain preferred embodiments ofthe present invention and are illustrative of the principles thereof:

Figure l is a perspective view of a table adapted to receive theapparatus which is utilized to form the pocket welt in accordance withthe present invention;

Figure 2 is a top plan view of said table;

Figure 3 is a perspective view of the device in the nature of acombination clamp and guide for holding the welt and pocket formingmaterials in position preliminari- 1y to their being sewed together toform the finished welt pocket;

Figure 4 is a top plan view of the device shown in Figure 3;

Figure 5 is a longitudinal sectional view taken along the line 5-5 ofFigure 4;

Figure 6 is a transverse sectional view taken along the line 6-6 ofFigure 4;

Figure 7 is a side elevational view of the combination clamp and guide,showing the same opened;

Figure 8 is a perspective view of the combination clamp and guide, alsoshowing the same in its opened condition; 7

Figures 9 and 10 are similar plan views each showing the combinationclamp and guide mounted upon the work table, but respectively showingits condition relative to the pocket-forming materials during differentstages of its use in connection with the formation of a welt pocket;

Figure 11 is a sectional view of the table as taken along the line 11-11of Figure 2;

Figure 12 is a transverse sectional view taken along the line 12-12 ofFigure 9 but without the welt strip in place;

Figure 13 is a transverse sectional view also taken along the line 12-12of Figure 9 but showing the welt strip in place;

Figure 14 is a transverse sectional view as taken along the line 14-14of Figure 10;

Figures 15 and 16 are sectional views, taken respectively on line 15-15of Figure 21 and line 16-16 of Figure 22, of the pocket-portion of thegarment illustrating, respectively, the welt pocket in the process ofbeing formed and the welt pocket completed;

Figure 17 is a perspective view showing a sewing machine in associationwith the combination clamp and guide for holding the pocket-formingmaterial in proper relation to be sewed together;

Figure 18 is a fragmentary plan view showing that portion of the bed ofthe sewing machine which immediately underlies the stitching needle andalso the lower slotted plate of the combination clamp and guide;

Figure 19 is a sectional view taken along the line 19-19 of Figure 18showing the stop means effective for limiting movement of thecombination clamp and guide forwardly with respect to the axis ofreciprocation of the sewing machine needle; s

Figure 20 is a view similar to Figure 19 but showing the stop meanseffective for limiting movement of the combination clamp and guiderearwardly with respect to the sewing machine needle;

Figure 21 is a plan view of the pocket-forming fabrics secured togetheras shown in Figure 15;

Figure 22 is a view showing the inner face of the completed welt pocket;

Figure 23 is a fragmentary view showing the outer face of the weltpocket, particularly the welt portion thereof, as viewed from the line23-23 of Figure 16;

Figure 24 is a perspective view similar to Figure 8 showing a modifiedconstruction of the combination clamp and guide unit;

Figure 25 is a perspective view showing in separated relation the baseplate of the modified unit and the means associated therewith forlocating the die-cut fabric in its proper relation to the needle guideslots;

Figure 26 is a bottom plan view of the base plate of the modified unit;1

Figure 27 is a longitudinal sectional view as taken along the line 27-27of Figure 26; and

Figure 28 is a fragmentary top plan view of the base plate, showing thefabric-locating means associated therewith secured in an adjustedposition different from that illustrated in Figures 24 to 27.

In the conventional production of inset pockets having welts, thecustomary procedure is to die-cut the garment fabric A in which thepocket is to be formed to provide the slit for the pocket opening. Suchslit is of the form 2 best shown in Figures 3, 9, 18 and 21 and consistsof a horizontally extending slitted portion B terminating at oppositeends in divergent portions C-C to provide in the garment fabric A a pairof trapezoidal-shaped flaps D-D and a pair of triangulanshaped flapsE-E, all of which may be folded back against the inner surface of thefabric A to form a rectangular opening of approximately the shape andsize defined by the dotted lines F-F and G-G of Figure 22. opening whichis subsequently fitted with the welt H (see Figure 23) which finishesoff the pocket, the welt H being secured to the garment fabric A onlyalong the It is this rectangular vertical lines I--I and the horizontalline I, thereby leaving the upper edge-K free of the garment-fabric toprovide an entrance opening into the pocket.

The pocket per se is formed of overlapping pocket liners L and M, whichrespectively depend from the garment fabric A and from the welt H, thesepocket liners being rnar gina'lly secured together as along the "clottedlines NN-O to complete the inset pocket. This pocket construction isdiagrammatically shown in Figures-'15 and 16 wherein it"w'ill 'b'e'bb'serv'ed' tha't the pcket liner L which depends from the garmentfabric A overlies the inner face of the pocket lin'er'M which is secured"to and depends fre'mthe v'veIrH The opposite ends of the welt H, whichrespectively overlie the inturned fla'ps are secured to the pocketiinersL andM by the'lin'es of stitching I-I which respectively-extendalong the I fold lines of-the inter-he'd flaps Theseiines of stitch-ingI-'I may be endnsueuy are eemeidenrwiththe pocketclosing lines ofstitching N='-N. -It'will be noted further that the pocket iii-1dr -M-isse'lird t the Welt -H by lhe same line of stitching I which secures thelower edge of the welt to the garment fabric A, this stitching beingcoincident withthefold lineof the --lower flap D of the 'die cht fabric-A"Ta"nd that the-pocket liner L is secured to the garment fabric A by ahorizontal line of stitchingP coincident with'the fold liheof the upperflap D of the die-cut fabric --A.

It Will beunders't'ood' that'the di'e cu'tting of th'efabric A,theprepar'ati'on of the Welt H and the pocket liners L and M, and their'relative'asseinblyas above described reform the completed welt pocketis in aceorda'n'cewith conventional procedure and' that thepresenrinvention resides not only-in themeans hereinafterdescribed-foifacilitating accurate and'expeditiou'splacement er 'thev'vel't and pocket liners upon andsecu'rem'ent thereof to "the diecutgarment fabric A but also in the method at handling the severalpockeeforr'ning parts in' the rnaking' up or the completed pocket.

Referring now to the drawings'a'nd more particularly to Figures 4 to 7thereof, itwill be obser'ved that the present invention providesa'combination clamp and guide device, designated generally by thereferencenumeral 10, which includes a rectangular base plate 11 to whichis hinged, as at 12, a top plate 13 which is adapted: to be swung fromits open position shown in Figures 7 and 8 intoaclosed position (-Figurein-w-hichlatter condition the device -lo serves nc itonly 'a-s a clampto hold the several pocket-forming parts, including the 'welt H, inproper assembled-relation during the operation of'stitehing themtogether, but also as a .guide lfor 'accur ately feeding the assembledparts through the stit'ching h'ead*of a sewing machine 'alongpre=determinedlyfixed parallel stitching lines.

Hingedly secured to the base plate 11,:as at 44,:is1a strap 15 of fiatspring-me'tal', whichstrap, of relatively narrow width, is disposedadjacent one longitudinal edge of the baseplate 11 as most "clearlyappears in Figu'reS. The strap 15 is reversely bentas shown toprovide adepressed central portion'16 which -is adapted to resiliently pressflatwise against the base plate when the strap is swung intoitsoperative fabric holding position shown in Figures 7 'and"8. To-securethe holding strap in its operative position, the "base plate 11is providedw itha vertically projecting latch pin 17 whichfric'tionally-engages the edge of a suitable aperture 18 formed in thefree end 'of the strap 15, whereby the latter is qniee 'releasablyretained in its operative position.

i The hinged top plate 1-3 ofthe device-I0 iscehtrally provided with-arectangular opening- 1'9, across the length of which are disposed a pairof relativelyclosely"spaced, parallel guide members --20-21 for thereciprocating needleof asewing machine. These members m nia-reeachr'e'silientlysupported upon the u-n'dei side of thetop plate 13 bythe means and in the manner best "shown in Figures G and 7, wherein "itwill be observed that the opposite ends of each of the members 20-21 isprovided with a headed bolt '22 theshank of which projects looselythrough a suitable aperture 23 in the plate 13 and is fitted with acoiled compression spring 24 disposed between the plate 13 and the guidemember. It will be apparent that the compression springs 24 operate toresiliently press the guide members 20-21 away from their supportingplate 13, in consequence of which said guide members are spring-pressedinto engagement with and thus securely hold impositionthe'pocket-forming parts clamped between the base plate 11 and the topplate 13 of the device 10. To facilitate detachable-assembly of thespring-pressed guide members 20- 21 with the top plate '13, the opposite'ends of each guide "member have welded thereto boss elements 25 whichare suitably tapped to receive the threaded ends of the bolts 22.

The base plate 11 is provided With a pair of elongated narrow slots2627, which slots are disposed in parallel relation and-are of suchlength and so-'s'paced asto register With-the rectangular opening 19 cfthe top'plate when the latteris swung into its closed, clampingposition. Preferably, the slots 26- 27 which "are of equal length, areslightly shorter than the length of the o enin m and are symmetricallyspaced to either side of the longitudinal center-line of said opening19.

The spring-pressed guide rh'ernbrs 2t)-"-21 are respectively providedwith elongated narrow slots -28=29 in registr with the ease'plate-"slot's-26 27. At this point it will be noted-that the ba-se plateslots26 27 and their registering tep plate slots -28==-2'9 areea'ch-of -alength slightly-greater than "the length of the parallel stitch line's-Jand -P of Fighres 15, 16 and 21. Also, it is iihportaht 'to observe'tl'iat the registering pair of 'slots 26-28 are so late lly spaeed'rremthe flexible "strap 15 and from th' registering-pair er 'slots 27 2)that when 'thewelt His-initially disposed with its'finished outer edgecoincident withth'e' inner e'dg'e of' the *strap 15, the unfinishedinner e'dg'e of the welt H is disposed between the paired slots 26"28and the paired slots-27 29. To this end, the distance between the inneredge of the strap 15 and the longitudinal center line of the pairedslots 26"28 equals that between the longitudinal center lines of thelaterally'spaoed paired slots-26-28 and 27- 29.

Any suitable means may be-=emplo'yed to quick-releasany leekthetop-plate 1-3 in clamped relation'to the base plate 11. For this purpose'the base plate may be protitled with a veritieeily rejeetin short post30 which is adapted to proj'e'o't through an-aperture -31 suitablyprovided in the hinged top plate '--13, the projecting portion ofthepost-being grooved,- heat 32, to receive a spring wire retainer 33wh-i'ch i's siiitabl'y fixed to the-upper surface of the top plate 13 toiit'en'd 'chorda'lly across the aperture 31. -Thus, when the'top iste isswung into its closed clamping positions'hoviiil in Figures-4 and 5, the

spring Wire r'etaine'rassnaps intothe groove '32 of the post andquick-rele'asably locks the top plate "13 to the bas'e plate 11. Inortler' to limitdown'ward movement of the top plate relatively to thebase plate and so maintain them substantiall parallel when the work tobe operaired on is clamped' therehetween, the base plate 11 may beprovided with an upstanding stop 34 upon which the free end-of thehinged top plate 13 is "adapted to rest.

The combination clamp and guide device 10 is designed, of course, tohold theseveral pocket-forming parts in proper assembled relation duringthe 'operations'of sewing them together along the stitchingli'n'es J andP hereinbefore mentioned (see Figures 15, l6and 23), which operationsai' pei forfh'ed, as"-'ShoWh 'in Figure "17, by feeding the clampedwork'th'fo'ugh the needle head'ofa' se'wing machine 35.

This-sewing machine, vvhich'hlh'y 0f anyeonventi nal form, is modifiedby removing therefrom the presser'fo'ot and the reed 'dogs 'whi'chare-n'o'r-mally present in the machine' and by replacing the 'normalneedle plate with -'a special needle plate such as'that'de's'ign'ated36in Figures 17 to 20. As clearly appears in these figures, the needleplate 36 is secured to the sewing machine bed 37 by screws 37 -37 sothat the top surface of the needle plate is flush with that of the bed37 over which the clamped work is manually shifted. The needle plate isprovided with an elongated slot 38 in the center of which is suitablyfixed a tubular needle guide 39 through which the threaded eye of theneedle 40 may reciprocate for stitching of the pocket parts together. Itwill be understood, of course, that the stitch-forming mechanisms (notshown) disposed beneath the needle plate 36 and which coact with theneedle to perform the desired stitching are conventional and inthemselves constitute no part of the present invention.

Secured to the needle plate 36, as by the bolts 41 and their wing nuts42, are a pair of stops 43-43 which are individually adjustablelengthwise of the needle plate slot 38 to limit the movement of theclamped work (i. e. the loaded device relatively to the needle 40 tothereby limit the length of the lines of stitching I and P. It will benoted that the stops 43-43 are each in the form of a member 44 (slottedas at 44) adapted to be secured fiatwise against the bottom surface ofthe needle plate 36 and having an upturned extremity 45 which projectsinto the needle plate slot 38. The upper edge of the extremity 45 ofeach stop 43 projects above the top surface of the needle plate, as doesthe upper edge of the needle guide 39.

As most clearly appears in Figures 18 to 20, the needle guide 39 and theupwardly projecting extremities 45-45 of the stops 43-43 are adapted tofit into one or the other of the guide slots 26-27 in the base plate 11of the clamp and guide device 10 when the latter is positioned flatwiseover the bed 37 (and needle plate 36) of the sewing machine. Upon sopositioning the device 10 relatively to the needle guide 39 and thestops 43-43, it will be apparent that as the device 10 is horizontallyshifted relatively to the reciprocating axis of the needle 40, the guide39 and the stop extremities 45-45 ride in the selected base plate slot26 (or 27) and insure that the line of stitching produced by the machineis truly rectilinear and exactly in coincidence with the predeterminedline of stitching J (or P). During this stitching operation, the needle40 reciprocates vertically through the vertically coincident slots 26-28(for the line of stitching J) or through the vertically coincident slots27-29 (for the line of stitching P).

By positional adjustment of the stops 43-43 relatively to the needleguide 39, the extent of travel of the device 10 may be accuratelycontrolled as desired to thereby obtain a predetermined length ofstitching line. By removing the stops 43-43 completely, the full lengthof slot 26 (or 27) may be employed to obtain a line of stitching ofmaximum length. When, however, the stops 43-43 are employed, they eachmay be positionally adjusted more or less away from the tubular needleguide 39 to change the starting and stopping points along the line ofstitching J (or P) and so change as desired the effective length of thestitching line. The extent of adjustment of the stops 43-43 isdetermined, of course, by the length of their slots 44*. In certaininstances it may be desirable to eliminate the use of the stops 43-43,in which case the needle plate 36 would be provided simply with a needleguide 39 which would serve to engage opposite ends of the base plateslot 26 (or 27) as the device 10 is shifted from one to the other of itsextreme positions relatively to the reciprocating axis of the sewingmachine needle 40.

To facilitate disposition of the loaded device 10 into stitchingposition below the needle head of the sewing machine, the top plate 13is marginally indented, as at 46-46, to reduce the overall thickness ofthe device along the region traversed by the sewing machine needIe andso permit it to be laterally shifted into position beneath the needlewhen the latter is raised into its uppermost position. If desired, oneof the indented edges of the top plate 13 may be fitted with areinforcing bar 47, in which case the non-reinforced edge of the plate13 would be that which is inserted laterally across the reciprocatingaxis of the needle for registry of oneor the other of the slots 26-27with the needle guide 39 and the stop elements -45.

In order to accurately dispose the garment fabric A with its die-cutslit B in proper relation to the needle slots in the combined clamp andguide device 10, loading of the latter with the pocket-forming parts iseffected upon a work-assembling table 50 as shown in Figures 1, 2 and 9to 14, inclusive. This table is provided with a rectangular opening 51in the top thereof which is generally complemented in size and shapewith the opening 19 in the top plate 13 of the device 10. Fitted in thetable top opening 51 is a movable insert 52 fitted with a plurality ofupwardly presenting sharply pointed pins 53, one for each terminal endof the divergent portions C of the die-cut slit B of the main bodyfabric A of the pocket to be formed. It will be noted that the insertmounts four pins and that the latter are relatively disposed inrespective coincidence with the four corners of the rectangular openingin the fabric A which is to be fitted with the welt H and which openingis defined by the dotted lines F-F and 6-6 of Figure 22.

The insert 52 is itself mounted upon the free end of a relatively longbeam 54 hinged as at 55 to the under side of the table top 50. The beam54 extends between a pair of brackes 56 which depend from'the table topand which support therebetween a pivot shaft 57 spaced well below theunder side of the table top. Pivoted upon this shaft 57 is a lever 58,one arm 59 of which is adapted to be swung into engagement with the beam54 to force it upwardly into its horizontal position shown in Figures 12and 13, in which raised position the pins 53 project freely above thetop of the table 50. Upon reverse operation of the lever 58 to free thearm from supporting engagement with the beam, the latter is free to dropinto its lowered position shown in Figures 11 and 14, in which latterdisposition of the insert 52 the pointed ends of the pins 53 are belowthe top surface of the table 50.

To effect accurate placement of the device 10 upon the table top andinsure proper registry of the pins 53 with the slots 26-27 in the baseplate 11 of the device 10, the table top is fitted with a fence 60having right-angularly related portions 61-62 against which arerespectively positioned the corresponding edge portions of the device10, as is best shown in Figures 9 and 10. When the de-' vice 10 ispositioned against the fence 60 as shown in Figures 9 and 10, theopposite ends of the slots 2627 in the base plate 11 of the device willbe disposed in position to respectively accommodate the upwardlyprojecting pins 53 of the table top insert 52 when the latter is swungupwardly into its operative position shown in Figures 12 and 13. In thisoperative position the pointed ends of the pins 53 are respectivelydisposed for projection through the terminals of the divergent portionsC-C of the die-cut slit B in the main body fabric A.

In the use of the apparatus of the present invention, the first step isto place the device 10 in its opened con- 'dition shown in Figures 3 and8 upon the table 50 and against the fence 60 so that the extremities ofthe slots 2&6-27 of the base plate 11 are respectively in registry withthe pins 53 of the table top insert 52, the latter, of course, beinglocked in its elevated position by means of the locking lever 58operating on the beam 54 as shown in Figure 12. The flexible strap 15 isswung upwardly out of its position shown in Figures 7 and 8, followingwhich the main body fabric A, which has been preliminarily die-cut toform the slit B, is placed over the base plate 11 with its outer surfacefacing up. The fabric A is disposed so that the terminals of thedivergent portions C-C of the die-cut slit are respectively in exactregistry at/11th the pins 53 whichproject upwardly through the 7 fabric(see. Figures 3 and .12). Thereupon the strap 15 is swung into itsposition-shown in Figure 3 to-clamp the fabric A in fixed positionuponthe base plate 11, whereupon'the pins 53 are retracted from thefabric by releasing the lever 58 to permit lowering of the beam 54 andthe table insert 52 carriedthereby.

Next, the welt H is laid upon the fabric A with the finished edge of thewelt in contactwith the inner edge of thestrap 15. This welt H= may beofany desired form and material and is usually prepared by .folding astrip of material upon itself'to provide it with a; finished edge alongits fold line, the opposite unfinished edges of the welt stripbeingsuitably stitchedtogether-as along the line Ha (Figure-.3). TheweltH is ofa lengthsomewhat longer than the overall length of thedie-cut slit B in the main body fabric A, and it is so disposed upon thefabric A as to have its opposite ends project equidistantly beyond thecorresponding ends'of the die-cut slit B. The next stepin' the operationis to place thepocket liner M upon thewelt with" the inneredge of thelining Mcoincident with the unfinished inner edge of the welt strip H,the pocket liner M being so-disposed that its main body portion overliesthe strap 15 andthatportion of the body fabric A which extendsoutwardlyfrorn said strap. Preferably, thewelt strip is-of a width suchthat its unfinished inner edge is more or less coincident with the lineof the die cutslit B. However, .the coincident inner edges of the weltstrip Hand of thepocket liner M need notcoincide exactly with thedie-cutslit B, so long as such coincidentedges-are disposed between theslots26-27 of the base plate 11 of the device 10.

Thenextstep in the operation is-to place the. pocket liner-L upon the.fabricA with the inner edge of such pocket liner more or lesscoincident with the line of the die-cut slit B and with its main bodyportion overlying the garment :fabric .A and'extending outwardly fromthe die-cut slit B inthe direction away from the pocket liner M. As inthe; case of the pocket liner M, the inner edgeof the pocket linerL neednot. be disposed exactly coincident with the die-cuttsl-it B, itbeingonly necessary that it be-disposed between the slots 26-27. However, itis important to :note that the inner edges of the welt strip H, thepocket liner M and thepocket liner L should all be-exactly parallel tothe line of the die-cut slit B.

Following-placement of the welt .strip H andthe pocket parts M andl.upon the garment fabric .so that they respectively assume theirrelativepositions shown most clearly in Figures 3 and 15, the top .plate .13 ofthe deviceisaswung .into its closed-position and locked to securelyclamp the several pocket forming parts in their properly assembledrelation.

Thereupomthe device-10,, with'the-several pocket forming parts clampedtherein, is transferred from the table 50 to the sewing :machine 35 tocarry out the requisite sewing operations. To'thisend, the clamp isshiftedlaterally across the axis of the reciprocating needle 40 of thesewing-machine so -as to position the needle .guide 39 (and the stops43-43 when the latter are employed) in registry with one or theother of:the slots2fi-27 in the base plate of .the device 11. Assuming that itis the slot 26 which-is first brought intoregistry with the needleguide39, it will-beapparent that upon operation of the sewingmachineandmovement'of the device --10 relatively to the needle axis, .a \lineof-stitching will be obtained whichis coextensive .in length with theeffective length of the slot 26. :T his line of .stitchingis thatdesignated J- in Figures -and-21 and secures together the main bodyfabric A, the welt strip .Han'd the pocket liner M along :a line whichis closely adjacentwto and parallels the die-cut slot .B.

Uponcompletionof'thisline-of stitching J, .the. device 10 with the work'stilltclampe'd therein .is laterally shifted so as to present :theadjoining slotl27 :in the .base plate 11 in registry with theneedleguide 39 (and with the stops 43- 43, should the-same-beemployed),whereupon upon shifting of the clamped workrelatively tothereciprocating needle 40 of the sewing machine,a second. line ofstitching is obtained, this line being that designated P in zFigures 15-and.21 to secure the pocket liner L to the fabric A. It will be notedthat the line of stitching P closely adjoins and is parallel to thedie-cut'slit B, this line of stitching :1 being disposed, however, toone side ofthedie-cut slit B opposite that of the welt-securing stitchline I.

It w-illbe apparent that by proper adjustment of the stops 5-3-43relativelyto the needle-guide 39, the effective length of the stitchlines 'I and P may be varied as desired. Thus, by increasing thedistance between each stop 43 and the needle guide 39, the length oftravel of the device-11h relatively to the needle willbe decreased, thusshortening-the reflective-length of thestitchilines and P. Of course,the stops 43-43 would be adjusted relatively to the needleguide39 toprovidefora length of stitch line which is coextensive'with the overalllength of the die-cut slit B formed inthefabric A.

If desired, the sewing machine may be of the type having -a pair ofvertically reciprocating needles so spaced as to simultaneously formthestitch lines I and P. In such ease,-the two needles of the sewingmachine would respectively project through the slots 26-27 of thedevice, whichsslots, of -course, would be laterallyspaced apartincorrespondencewith the spacing of the dual needles of the sewingmachine. It will be understood, of course, that the spring pressedmembers 20-21 of the top plate 13 of the device lit operate toresiliently press together the overlying pocket-forming-parts which areto be securedtogether along the stitch lines I and P and the needle-40-operates through the slots28-29 of the spring pressed members 20-21,which last mentioned slots are in registry 'wit-hthe baseplateslots26-27.

Upon completion of the stitching operations to form the stitch linesl-andi, the clamped workis then removed -from the sewingimachine,following which the clamp is opened and thesewed work removed therefrom.Thereupon the :pocket is completed in accordancewith conventionalprocedure as follows. The pocket part M is drawnthrough theslit B andreversely turned, as shown in Figure 16, to present it inoverlyingrelation to the inner or wrong side of garment fabric A, .atthe same time presenting the welt H in proper relation to the weltopening defined by the dotted lines F-F and 6-6 of Figure 22. The pocketpart L is similarly drawn through the slit Bio present it inoverlyingrelation'to the welt Hand its depending pocket part. M,following which opposite end portionsof the welt and the pocket liner Lare respectively stitched, as at 1-1, to the fabric A along the-foldlines G-Gof the reversely turned triangular tabs E-E. Finally, theoverlyingp'ocket liners L and M are marginall-ysecured together by thelines of stitching N-N and O, the stitch lines N-N being preferablycoincident with thestitching 1-1 at opposite ends of the welt H. Thepockctthus completed is of the general form shown in Figures 16and 23and is provided with a welt-H which isinset into the garment fabric Aand is secured theretoi'by the lines of stitching 1-1 and I, its upperfinished :edge K being free of the fabric A to provide anopenin'g'aft'ordingaccess to the pocket formed between the pocketlinersL and M.

Figures 24 to 28 inclusive show a modified construction of thecombination clamp and guide unit of the present invention. In thismodified construction, the unit 60 is provided as in the previouslydescribed 'arrangement with a main base plate 61 to which ishingedlysecure/.1, 'asby the hinge shaft 62, atop cover plate 63. The bottomsurface of thebase' plate 61 is longitudinally milledioutto provide-ashallow undercut 64 of uniform depth and of a uniform width at leastequal to the distance=between theou'ter edges of the needle guide slots65-65. The length of the undercut is substantially greater than that ofthe guide slots 65-65 the undercut being extended equidistantly beyondthe opposite ends of the slots. Preferably, the depth of the undercut 64is about one half the thickness of the base plate 61.

Fitted in the undercut 64 are a pair of flat insert plates 66-66, eachof the configuration most clearly shown in Figure 25 to provide a widepart 67 having a relatively narrow extension 68. The wide part 67 is ofa width adapting it to fit snugly within the undercut 64, while theextension part 68 is a width equal to the distance between the proximateinner edges of the guide slots 65-65. The plates 66-66 are each of athickness equal to the depth of the undercut 64 in which they are fittedso that the bottom surfaces thereof are disposed flush with that of thebase plate 61 when the parts are assembled as shown in Figures 26 and27.

Suitably secured to or formed upon the upper surface of the narrowextensions of each insert plate 66 are a pair of laterally spacedrectangular blocks 69-69. Preferably, these blocks are secured inposition by screws, but they may be formed as integral parts of theinsert plate. Mounted upon each of the blocks 69-69 is an upwardlypresenting more or less sharply pointed pin 70.

It will be noted that the guide slots 65-65 are each provided at theiropposite ends with widened portions 71-71 and that these widenedslotportions are respectively ofiset inwardly of the slots of which they areparts. It also will be noted that the blocks 69-69 project upwardlythrough the widened portions 71-71 of the needle guide slots and are sorespectively disposed therein that the outer edge of each block 69 iscoincident with the inner edge of the central portion of its associatedguide slot 65. The pin 70 carried by each block 69 is solocated thereonas to present it in tangential relation to the inner edge of the centralportion ofits associated guide slot 65.

The widened end slots 71-71 are approximately twice the length of theblocks 69-69 disposed therein, in con-- sequence of which the latter maybe shifted longitudinally in the end slots 71-71 to vary the position ofthe pins 70-70 lengthwise of said slots. Of course, to efiect suchchange in position of pins 70-70 as from their positions shown inFigures 24 to 27 into their positions shown in Figure 28, the insertplates 66-66 are positionally adjusted lengthwise of their accommodatingundercut 64.

In order to permit positional adjustment of the insert plates 66-66relatively to the base plate 61, the latter is longitudinally slotted inthe undercut portions thereof which extend beyond the opposite ends ofthe guide slots 65-65, as at 72-72, and in the central portion of saidundercut, asat 73. These slots 72-72-73 are all in longitudinalalinement and respectively permit the projection therethrough of screws74-74 threaded into the outer end portions of the underlying insertplates 66-66 and of screws 75-75 similarly threaded into the inner endportions of said insert plates. These screws, when tightened, secure theinsert plates in any desired adjusted position within the limits ofpermissible movement of the pin-carrying blocks 69-69 lengthwise oftheir accommodating slots 71-71.

As most clearly appears in Figure 24, the spring-- pressed needle guidemembers 76-76 of the top plate 63 are respectively notched out, as at77-77, in correspondence with the notched out portions 71-71 of theneedle guide slots in the base member 61, so that when the top coverplate is clamped in its closed position, the pins 70-70 may upwardlyproject freely through the slots of the spring-pressed guide members76-76 of said top plate.

It will be apparent that in use of the modified construction of thecombined clamp and guide just described, the necessity for employing aspecial table with a fence and retractable pin-carrying insert, such asis shown in Figures 1 and 2, is completely dispensed with. The modifieddevice is employed in the same manner as that hereinbefore described, itbeing necessary only to positionally adjust the pins 70-70 lengthwise ofthe guide slots 65-65 prior to clamping the work in the unit so that thefour pins are spaced in correspondence with the relative spacing of theterminals of the divergent portions C-C of the die-cut slit of the bodyfabric A. It will be noted that the pins 70-70 are all disposed inwardlyof the guide slots 65-65 and so interpose no interference to freemovement of the clamped work relatively to the needle along the fulllengths of the stitch lines I and P (see Figure 21). Also, it will beapparent that the pins 70-70 pierce the welt H and the pocket linerparts L and M when the same are superposed upon the main fabric A asherein'before described and thus securely maintain the several partsintheir proper assembled relation not only while the same are beingclamped together between the base plate 61 and the top cover plate 63,but also after they have been clamped and are being stitched together bythe sewing machine operation.

While in the device as illustrated, the needle guide slots in the basemember extend rectilinearly along parallel lines coincident with thoseof the stitch lines I and P (Figure 21), it will be understood that saidguide slots (and their registering slots in the spring-pressed members20-21 of the top plate) may be of any desired curvilinear form toproduce stitch lines (such as J and P) which are of correspondingcurvilinear form. It will be understood, also, that the lateral spacingof the slots traversed by the sewing machine needle may be varied asdesired registering slots to be traversed by the sewing machine.

needle. Further, the spring-pressed slotted members 20- 21, whichrespectively function to exert substantially equal clamping pressureupon the material superimposed upon the fabric A and located to eitherside of its die-cut slit B, may be dispensed with in certain instances,as where the material to be clamped is of uniform thickness on oppositesides of the die-cut slit B. Indeed, it is con templated that in certaincases the top plate may be 1on gitudinally split along a line coincidentwith the line of placement of the die-cut slit of the fabric A upon theslotted base member to thereby provide a pair of upper clamping memberswhich respectively coact with the base plate to separately clamp insecured position the material disposed to either side of the die-cutslit B.

It will be understood, of course, that the present invention issusceptible to various other changes and modifications which may be madefrom time to time without departing from the general principles or realspirit of the invention, and it is accordingly intended to claim thesame broadly, as well as specifically, as indicated in the appendedclaims.

What is claimed as new and useful is:

1. In an apparatus of the character described for use in the productionof a garment pocket having a welted trim along the upper edge thereofand which pocket is made of a plurality of separate fabric pieces, oneof which is slitted to form a pocket opening immediately above saidwelted trim, a base member adapted to receive thereon the severalpocket-forming parts to be sewed together along predetermined spacedlines of stitching disposed to either side of said pocket opening slit,said member being provided with a pair of laterally spaced elongatedslots, means for anchoring the slitted fabric in position with its slitcentered between the laterally spaced slots and with its oppositeextremities disposed within the end limits of said slots, means. forlocating the pocket welt over said slitted fabric in a predeterminedlyfixed position said means being spaced to one side of and being parallelI to said laterally spaced slots, means for clamping addiaeaalss fabricand said pocket Welt respectively on opposite sides of the slit in theformer, and means for guiding the clamped work through theoperating'head of a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle alongstitch lines respectively coincident with the longitudinal center linesof said laterally spaced slots.

2. In an apparatus of the character described for use in the product-ionof a garment pocket having a welted trim along the upper edge thereofand which pocket is made of a plurality of separate fabric pieces, oneof which is slitted to form a pocket opening immediately above saidwelted trim, a base member adapted to receive there on the severalpocket-forming parts to be-sewed together along predetermined spacedlines of stitching disposed to either side of said pocket opening slit,said member being provided with a pair of laterally spaced elongatedslots, means for anchoring the slitted fabric in position with its slitcentered between the laterally spaced slots and withits oppositeextremities disposed within the end limits of said slots, means forlocating the pocket welt over said slitted fabric in a predeterminedlyfixed position, said means being spaced to one side of and beingparallel to said laterally spaced slots, means for clamping additionalpocketparts in superposed relation to said slitted fabric and saidpocket welt, and means for guiding the clamped work through theoperating head of a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle alongstitch lines respectively coincident with the longitudinal center linesof said laterally spaced slots, said pocket welt locating means .beingin the form of a substantially flat strap having a longitudinallyextending inner edge parallel to the slots aforesaid and spacedlaterally from the center line of the proximate slot a distancesubstantially equal to the spacing between the center lines of said pairof slots.

3. In an apparatus of the character described for use in the productionof a garment pocket having a welted trimmade of a plurality of separatefabric pieces, including the garment main body fabric, which is slittedto form apocket opening immediately above said welted trim, a basemember having formed therein a pair of elongated stitching. guide slots,a top member operatively associated with said base member for clampingsaid pocket-forming parts in predetermined superposed relation, said topmember having formed therein an opening adapted to overlie theslots inthe base member, spring-pressed pressure shoes carried by said topmember and extending across the opening therein for exerting a yieldingpressure against the parts clamped between said base member and topmember, said pressure shoes being respectively provided with elongatedslots adapted for registry with the guide slots in the base member, awelt locating member mounted upon said basemember-in laterally spaced,parallel relation to the guide slotsin said base member,and meansadapted to engage the opposite ends of the pocket opening slit formed inthemain bodyfabric to center said slit between the guide slots with itsopposite extremities disposed within the end limits of said slots.

4. In an apparatus as defined in claim 3 wherein said last-mentionedmeans includes a plurality of upwardly presenting pins adapted toproject'above the base member and through theslots in the pressure shoesof said top plate.

5. In an apparatus as defined in claim 3 wherein said last-mentionedmeans includes a plurality of upwardly presenting pins adapted toproject above the base member and through the slots in the pressureshoes of said top plate, said pins being completely separable from saidbase member.

6. In an apparatus as defined in claim 3 wherein said last-mentionedmeans includes a plurality of upwardly presentingpins adapted to projectabove the base member and through the slots in the pressure shoes ofsaid top-plate, saidpins being positionally adjustable longitudinallywithinthe lengths ofthe guide slots whereby their spacing longitudinallyof the guide slots may be varied 12 in accordance with variationsin theoverall length ofthe slitin said main body fabric.

7. In. an apparatusof the character described for use in the productionof agarment pocket having a welted trim made of a plurality of separatefabric pieces, including the garment main body fabric, which is slittedto form a pocket opening immediately above said welted trim, a basemember having formed thereina pair of elongated stitching guide slots, atop member operatively associated with said base member for clampingsaid pocketforming parts in predetermined superposed relation, said topmember having formed therein an opening adaptedto overlie the slots inthe base member, spring-pressed pressure shoes carried by said topmember and extending across the opening therein for exerting a yieldingpressureagain-st the parts clamped between said base member and topmember, said pressure shoes being respectively provided with elongatedslots adapted for registry with the guide slots in the base member, awelt loeating-member mounted upon. said base member in laterally spaced,parallel relation. to the guide slots in said base member, means adaptedto engage the opposite ends of the pocket opening slit formed in themain body fabric to center said slit between the guide slots with itsopposite extremities disposed within the end limits of said slots, andmeans for guiding the clamped work through .the operating; head of asewing machine having a reciprocating needle along stitch. linesrespectively coincident with the longitudinal center lines of said guideslots in the base member.

8. In an apparatus as defined in claim 7 wherein said last-mentionedmeans is in the form of a positionally fixed tubular element coaxialwith the sewing machine needle to permit free reciprocation thereofthrough the clamped Work, said element being disposed for projectionupwardly into'one of said guide slots to guide the work relatively tothe needle along a prescribed line of stitching.

9. In an apparatus of the character described for use in the productionof a garment pocket having a welted trim made of a plurality of separatefabric pieces, including the garment main body fabric, which is slittedto form a. pocket opening immediately above said welted trim, a basemember having formed therein a pair of elongated stitching guide slots,a top member operatively associated with said base member for clampingsaid pocket-forming parts in predetermined superposed relation, said topmember having formed therein an opening adapted to overlie the slots inthe base member-,spring-pressedpressure shoes carried by said top memberand extending across the opening therein for exerting a yieldingpressure against the parts clamped between said base member and topmember, said pressure shoes being respectively provided with elongatedslots adapted for registry with the guide slots in the base member,.awelt locating member mounted upon said base member inv laterally spaced,parallel relation to the guide slots in said base member, means adaptedto engage theopposite ends of the pocket opening slit formed in the mainbody fabric to center said slit between the guide slots with itsopposite extremities disposed within the end limits of said slots, andmeans for varying the effective lengthsof the guide slots in said basemember.

10. In a clamping devicefor maintaining a plurality of layers of fabricin superposed relation for a stitching operation, a base member havingformed therein an elongated guide slot for projection therethrough of areciprocable sewing machine needle, .a top member operatively associatedwith said base and adapted to overliesaid base, said top member having.formed therein a. needle slot coextensive in length and adapted forregistry with the slot in the base member, and means mounted on said topmember and depending from the bottom thereof to yieldingly clamp layersof fabric against said base.

11. In a clamping device for maintaining a plurality of layers of fabricin superposedrelation for a stitching operation, a base member havingformed therein an elongated guide slot [for projection therethrough of areciprocable sewing machine needle, a top member operatively associatedwith said base and adapted to overlie said base, said top member havingformed therein a needle slot coextensive in length and adapted forregistry with the slot in the base member, means mounted on said topmember and depending from the bottom thereof to yieldingly clamp layersof fabric against said base, and means for locating the layers of fabricin predetermined fixed relation relative to said slots.

12. In a clamping device for maintaining a plurality of layers of fabricin superposed relation for a stitching operation, a base member havingformed therein an elongated guide slot for projection therethrough of avertically reciprocable sewing machine needle, a top member operativelyassociated with said base and adapted to overlie said base, said topmember having tformed therein a needle slot coextensive in length andadapted for registry with the slot in the base member, and means mountedon said top member and depending from the bottom thereof to yieldinglyclamp layers of fabric against said base, said means comprising anelongated member having a slot therein coextensive with and in registrywith the slot in said base member and resilient means securing the endsof said member to said top member.

13. In a clamping device for maintaining a plurality of layers of fabricin superposed relation for a stitching operation, a base member havingformed therein an elongated guide slot for projection therethrough of avertically reciprocable sewing machine needle, a top member operativelyassociated with said base and adapted to overlie said base, said topmember having formed therein a needle slot coextensive in length andadapted for registry with the slot in the base member, means mounted onsaid top member and depending from the bottom thereof to yielding clamplayers of fabric against said base, and means for locating the layers offabric in predetermined fixed relation relative to said slots, said lastnamed means comprising pin means operatively associated with saidclamping members and located adjacent opposite ends of the needle guideslot.

14. The combination of claim 13 wherein said pin means are completelyseparable from said clamping members.

15. The combination of claim 13 wherein said pin means are respectivelyshiftable into adjusted position lengthwise of the needle guide slot tovary the spacing therebetween in correspondence with variation in thedesired length of stitching.

16. In an apparatus of the character described for use in the productionof garment pockets made of a plurality of separate pieces of fabric oneof which is slitted to form a pocket opening, a pair of members adaptedto be secured together to clamp therebetween the pocket-forming parts tobe sewed together along a predetermined line of stitching extendingparallel to the pocket opening slit in said one fabric piece, saidmembers being respectively provided with registering elongated slots ofa length at least equal to the length of said line of stitching and saidslots being adapted to permit the vertical projection therethrough ofthe reciprocating needle of a sewing machine upon shifting of said slotsrelatively to the reciprocating axis of the needle, and pin meansoperatively associated with said clamping members and respectivelylocated adjacent opposite ends of the needle guide slot for registrywith opposite extremities of the pocket opening slit in said one fabricpiece, said pins being completely separable from said clamping membersand operative to locate said slitted fabric piece in position with theslit thereof parallel to the line of stitching aforesaid.

17. In an apparatus of the character described for use in the productionof garment pockets made of a plurality of separate pieces of fabric oneof which is slitted to form a pocket opening, a pair of members adaptedto be secured together to clamp therebetween the pocket-forming parts tobe sewed together along a predetermined line of stitching extendingparallel to the pocket opening slit in said one fabric piece, saidmembers being respectively provided with registering elongated slots ofa length at least equal to the length of said line of stitching and saidslots being adapted to permit the vertical projection therethrough ofthe reciprocating needle of a sewing machine upon shifting of said slotsrelatively to the reciprocating axis of the needle, and pin meansoperatively associated with said clamping members and respectivelylocated adjacent opposite ends of the needle guide slot for registrywith opposite extremities of the pocket opening slit in said one fabricpiece, said pins being respectively shiftable into adjusted positionslengthwise of the needle guide slot to vary the spacing therebetween incorrespondence with variations in the length of the pocket opening slitaforesaid and operative to locate said slitted fabric piece in positionwith the slit thereof parallel to the line of stitching aforesaid.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS1,403,094 Murchison Ian. 10, 1922 2,282,545 Rosenstein May 12, 19422,355,023 Wiren Aug. 1, 1944 2,519,126 Falk Aug. 15, 1950 FOREIGNPATENTS 653,177 Great Britain May 9, 1951 658,439 Great Britain Oct. 10,1951

